This post has been delayed for the longest time but without further or do, here it is! This past August I took a “trication” to Scandinavia to compete in the KMD Ironman Copenhagen, 4:18:4 and the ITU World Olympic Triathlon Stockholm. A few days after competing in Copenhagen (race report to come soon) I took a day trip to the island of Møn to get off the beaten path and explore the Danish countryside by bike. It is quite a lot for one day but can be done.
Møn is an island south of Copenhagen that can be very easily reached by train and bus in just under 2 hrs. You can take the ICE train south to Vordingborg (a very cute little town) and transfer directly to the 660 bus to Stege outside of the train station. The buses and trains are extremely easy to use. Buses accept cash on board then you board the bus as a method of payment so you dont have to worry about getting a card.
Arriving in Møn the bus drops you off in the town of Stege which is the largest town on the island and is a base for all activities on the island. We arrived around 11:30 or so in the morning at Stege which gave us a little bit of time to explore the town. A beautiful little town filled with restaurants, craft shops and art galleries the town also features some stunning Danish architecture as well as one of the only surviving city gates in Denmark. Møn is a place that attracts a lot of artists which is evident by its stunning landscapes. Thus, if you are into the arts, I highly recommend checking out some of the galleries in Stege. Liza’s Gallery, located just off the main strip in Stege (a few blocks from the bus station) is an excellent art gallery to visit which features a nice variety of art from glass works, to textiles to painting from local artists. We spent a good hour in this place as I just wanted to buy everything. I purchased a beautiful painting of Møns Klint, the famous clay cliffs, by Rupert Sutton who is one of the co owners of the gallery .
To rent/hire a bicycle head to Point S Stege a 10 short minute walk down Storegade (the main road) past all the shops. Point S allows you to rent bikes for the day or days if you are staying longer. Opening hours are from Mon-Fri 7:30 to 17:00, Saturday 9:00 to 13:00. The shop also allows you to return the bike after hours which was fantastic for us since we wanted to maximize our day on the island.
After picking up the bikes at Point S we cycled east along Klintevej stopping at Keldby Kirk for some photos in route to stop at Kaj Kok, a traditional Danish restaurant for lunch. To our disappointment the restaurant was closed. Continuing on, we took a right at Sondre Landevej (across the street from Kaj Kok) toward Klinthom Havn. Klintholm Havn is a small port town that features a beautiful beach for relaxation, a couple restaurants, and an art gallery. The town is also the launching point for boat tours to visit the popular Møns Klint. In route to Klinthom Havn we passed many beautiful traditional style houses and farms. I found myself stopping numerous times to snap photographs. The terrain is a gradual down hill to Klintholm Havn. We became aware of that on the return ride as it felt slightly harder to peddle back. For the most part the terrain here is pretty flat. If you are peddling along at a gradual pace the ride is just under 10 miles (about 15km) and will take you no longer than 45 minutes to get there from Stege. Arriving in Klintholm Havn we had lunch at Hyttefadet which features delicious seafood specials. Special note that the menu is only in Danish. The service I must say was fantastic though. Pressed for time we trying to eat quickly to make our boat tour to go to Møns Klint. The manager of the restaurant was so gracious he called the tour company and held the boat for us. Peddling over to the docks he locked up our bikes at the dock and boarded the boat.
Taking a boat tour of Møns Klint is a great way to see the cliffs and learn about its history if you are pressed for time. Sejlkutteren Discovery runs boat tours a couple times a day out of Klintholm Havn. The boat tour is about 2 hrs and costs 175 DKK per person. Beverages can ice cream can be purchased on-board which was a nice treat.
After the boat tour we poked around the gallery in Kintholm Havn which featured numerous paintings and photographs by local artists as well as a large antique collection on the down stairs. Definitely worth the look if you have some time.
The ride back to Stege was a little more challenging than we had anticipated. The gradual climb back to Klintevej combined with the increased cross wind was a little more challenging on the touring bike. Since the terrain is pretty much open farm land on this route it can become very susceptible to higher cross winds. It was nothing crazy just something to consider. We made a pit stop at the Elmelunde Kirk on the return to admire some traditional Danish church architecture and take a glance inside to see the ceiling paintings. Elmelunde is noted to have some of the most beautiful Sistine “chapelesque” paintings inside. We, however, arrived a little too late to take a look inside. The exterior of the church and its grounds are still quite remarkable and worth the stop to gander at.
After reaching Elmelunde the ride back is a flat 4.5 miles back to the bike shop (approximately a 20 minute ride). Arriving back in Stege I was a little surprised that everything for the most part was closed on a week day in August. It was difficult for us to find a place to eat on the return before catching the bus back. I ended up running to the supermarket (which i just made in time as it was closing) to grab some food, or so Mon-Is in my case.
I highly recommend checking out Mon and the clay cliffs if you have a free day in Copenhagen. It is definitely worth the trip to experience the Danish countryside off the beaten track.
Møn by Bicycle (Stege, Kirks and Møns Klint) Itinerary and Route – 1 Day
- Early or mid morning train from Copenhagen to Vordingborg where you will transfer to bus to Stege. Approximately 2 hrs.
- Arrive in Stege late morning with an 45 minutes to an hour to walk around the town and visit shops and galleries. Recommended places include; Liza’s Gallery for local Danish fine art, David’s for a morning coffee, shopping along BLANK.
- Hire a bicycle from Point S – Stege located a 10 minute walk from downtown Stege.
- Cycle Stege to Klintholm Havn via Keldby Kirk to stop for a photo op: 10 Miles, 45 minutes
- Lunch in Klintholm Havn at Hyttefadet and check out the Gallery a block down the street before catching a boat for a two hour boat tour of Møn Klint.
- Cycle Klintholm Havn to Elmelunde Kirk : 6 miles, 30 minutes
- Cycle from Elmelunde Kirk to Stege: 4.5 Miles, 20 minutes
- Depending on the day and time you arrive back in Stege have dinner downtown before catching the bus back to Vordingborg.
- Catch an early evening/late afternoon bus back to Vordingborg to transfer to the train back to Copenhagen. Arrive back in Copenhagen later in the evening.
Trip Duration: 12-13 hrs (from Copenhagen)
Cycling: 21 Miles, 1h 35 min
Stay tuned for my full detailed cycling and travel guide of Møn to come soon complete with maps and more photographs!